My husband and I had spent weeks waiting for this day. The day we’d fly to Kenya. It was effectively our honeymoon. Three years after the actual day.
We got married in peak Covid off the back of major business hardship, a ton of familial stress and ten thousand South African rand to our name. We spent the first year of our marriage digging ourselves out of over R200 000 worth of debt (six months of bills and other things), the second year putting me through my honours, paying for our newly acquired business “TWOBOP” and getting back on our feet. Now, it was finally time for a holiday. Paid for in advance through modelling rebates, our flights and accommodation were booked in November 2023 after I saw a friend-of-a-friend post a location I’d never seen before, Lamu, Kenya. One Instagram story was all it took. Soon after I sent the location to my husband with a bit of a write up (we both have to agree on travel plans), we had put together a budget sheet and had started mapping out our holiday. Now, we were here.
THE VISA
“So…” said the airline attendant sleepily, “Do you have a visa for your final destination?” He looked up at us. Surely he was joking. Between us, Mario and I have travelled over 20 countries, as experienced travellers we searched but nothing indicated that Kenya required a visa. “Sorry, sir — that isn’t required,” my husband indicated. “Yes, it is. You will get deported without it. I just denied another passenger.” “Are you serious?” I retorted, “Can you show us where you’re seeing this information?” “Search etA.” He said.
We did. An eTA is a “Kenya electronic travel authorisation”, without which no one enters Kenya. But, you know, Visa’s aren’t required. The website indicated that while the eTA was free, the process took up to 9 days and was electronic. So, there was no one we could phone. It was 5am at Cape Town International. Our local flight would land in Johannesburg by 8am thereafter, giving us only an hour and a half before we take off for Harare and then Nairobi.
Mario started filling in the online eTA forms immediately. I couldn’t focus. My head was buzzing and I was already imagining taking the walk of shame at the office after having told my colleagues my plans. Oof.
“Get us on that flight, sir,” my husband said. “Okay, but without your eTA you’re not getting on the international flight.” “Yes, but get us on that flight.” He was already doing my online form for me. The site wasn’t accepting my headshot. The tears felt close. “Hurry up, Eden – focus. And, pray that between now and when our flight lands at 8am, something happens.”
We did pray. We started praying from the security gates. We knew that if the visa didn’t come, we would forfeit all of our other flights as we’d already checked in. The airline attendant came to the Gate to tell us that he’d be happy to welcome us home when we get kicked off of our flight in Joburg, and we responded in unison, “I have a very big God.”
The flight was tense. We were praying under our breath, planning the way forward. At the very least, we’d fly to Harare – stay there for three days instead of the planned one, and then have to rebook a flight to Kenya. But that would steal away from our spending budget, so it was Plan B. Damn. Okay, well… Plan A — When we get to the airport, we’d split up — Mario would run to the Kenyan Airlines desk and beg, while I run to baggage claim and sprint to meet him with our bags (we couldn’t send our bags straight through because we didn’t have a visa). An hour and a half wasn’t time enough to do all of that and still get on an international plane. But, we were going to take the chance. The flight landed. Flight mode was deactivated, and we instantly refreshed our emails. No visas. Plan A was set in motion.
farther than they had wanted to
I’m so thankful I was generally fit, because I ran like my life depended on it and so did my husband, simultaneously refreshing his email every five seconds. He arrived at the Kenyan Airlines desk to see a woman being turned away for lack of an eTA. “Hello ma’am…” he began whilst refreshing his email. He gawked at this screen. The words, “ETA” were at the top of his mail, and… “Babe, what’s going on?” — I was still waiting for our bags. I was dead last at baggage collection and the suspense was killing me. “You won’t believe it. I just got to the desk and… THANK YOU JESUS — OUR VISAS ARE IN MY MAIL. Get the bags and get HERE.”
Don’t be like us. Get your eTA before visiting Kenya.
DAY ONE — LANDING IN NAIROBI
CONNECTIVITY
We acquired Safaricom eSims from just outside the airport with 10GB of data loaded onto them as well as minutes and SMSes. It cost us around R600, which we felt was worth it! From my experience, data in African countries outside of South Africa usually lasts long, and this 10GB was the same.
MONEY
We downloaded Safaricom’s mobile money app, mPesa for all money transactions. Linked to your mobile number, it’s been around since 2007 and handles over 70% of the country’s transactions. You can load money onto your mPesa app at any Safaricom cell phone shop (they’re at most malls). Just draw the cash you’d like to transfer to your app, and it is instant. There are no fees. This makes buying at markets, and “gullies” a lot easier.
TRANSPORT
We used Uber to get around, sometimes ordering a car, tuk tuk or boda boda (motorbike)! It’s super affordable and safe.
ACCOMMODATION
We generally book all accommodation on Booking.com and, we were glad to have booked an airport shuttle when we landed at 6am from Harare. We had booked at Kozi Suites which we found to be really popular with tourists! We only stayed overnight, and so we appreciated its close vicinity to the airport, comfortable bedroom set up and helpful staff – for affordable rates.
DAY ONE ITINERARY
Nairobi is a huge city, and so — we might have stayed closer to town if we’d known, however, if you want to explore, you’re going to have to travel far distances!
Morning Coffee and breakfast took place at Kesh Kesh Coffee Roastery
Afterwards, we walked over to the amazing Yaya Centre for some shopping (a few waters, and exploring). We ended up going back to that shopping mall many times. They have a Masai Market on their rooftop every Sunday, and some of the best Chinese food in their food court.
NOTE: There’s a large Chinese population in Nairobi, and their influence is everywhere from the many black wires between the buildings, to the fact that most of the cars we drove in had mandarin dash boards rather than english ones?! City street signs, the best Chinese food and possibly the biggest Chinese Market we’ve ever been to show their strong influence in the city.
The afternoon saw us taking a 1-hour drive out of town (the Uber was KSH1090 / R155) to Fairview Coffee Estate for a coffee tour around their amazing plantation. The tour ended with a cupping and tasting. We were about 15 in the tour, which started at around 2/3pm, and obviously we were the first to arrive. If we had to do it again, we’d book earlier in the day to miss the traffic on the way back into town! It’s also just safer and guarantees that you’ll get an Uber coming out that far to fetch you.
It took us two hours to get to our chosen dinner venue, Mama Ashanti, recommended by a Youtuber we followed. We enjoyed the West African delicacies and were able to try some food for the first time! Make sure to make a booking on their website, as they’re popular. We tried the Nigerian style goat pepper soup, goat stew, stewed whole fish and pounded yam.
DAY TWO — LEAVING NAIROBI, KENYA
DAY TWO ITINERARY
A friend of ours who knows we love coffee recommended we try Barista & Co, a small specialty chain in Kenya! There are three branches, and we visited the Keystone Park branch, tucked to the side of an office park in the middle of a nice, quiet neighbourhood. We’d rate them a solid 9/10.
I’d so badly wanted to explore the Gikomba second hand market (the second biggest open air market in Kenya), but our Uber driver suggested we rather go to the Masai Market, as Gikomba is a popular hotspot for pickpockets. The Yaya Centre Masai market was beautiful – but we didn’t buy, as we knew we were coming back to Nairobi on the back end of our trip.
We made our way back to the hotel to check out and gather our bags for the Madakara Express which is a train that travels through the Tsavo National Park to deliver passengers from Nairobi to Mombasa and everything in between.
Because we had only gotten our mobile numbers the day before, we were unable to book first class tickets (they were sold out) for the train, however, we had the best time and made so many friends along the way. The 6-hour train ride is clean, efficient and showcases stunning scenery. We saw elephant, giraffe and many different buck — all for KSH 1500 per person (R215).
NOTE: Get to the SGR Terminus on time as there are multiple security checks, and even a sniffer dog security check.
DAY THREE — EXPLORING MOMBASA, KENYA ON MY BIRTHDAY!
DAY THREE ITINERARY
We woke to the aircon at the Creekside CityBlue Mombasa at full strength, as was needed — what a change in humidity. The previous night was a shocker. We had a room with a view over the Creek and amazing service from the team.
As per usual, we left early, using a tuk tok (around KSH100-KSH500 (R70)), in search of a local breakfast and Kahawa (a traditional, cinnamon coffee) which goes for around KSH15. We got it and more at Jahazi Coffee House.
This gem, hidden in Old Town Mombasa, is one we literally came back to EVERY – SINGLE – DAY of our stay. Simple, but beautiful. We tried their Samosas, Mahamri and Halwa! Each item goes for around KSH50-100 and we spent around KSH600 (R86) in total for breakfast.
We walked up into town to see the Moi Avenue Mombasa Tusks, and parade through the Uluru Gardens before surrendering to the heat and heading back to our hotel to change for the beach. Which beach? Nyali Beach! We have beautiful beaches in Cape Town, but this one was not only pristine, it was warm!
We frolicked in the waves while camels walked past and other couples enjoyed themselves with tubes. We made friends with Moses, a handsome young man who was the head beach boy there! For KSH200 we could hire a locker to store our belongings for the duration of our visit!
As you can imagine, dinner time couldn’t come soon enough after all of that swimming. We booked a sunset dinner at the Tamarind Restaurant securing the best seats. We ordered the Mambrui Mangrove Oysters as starters (the best I’ve ever had!), Swahili Lobster, Chilli Crab, Coupe Bahari, Kenyan Coffee, Turkish Delights and more for around KSH8000 (R1143) — very reasonable for that sort of meal. The food was delicious and the service, great.
DAY FOUR — MORE OF MOMBASA
DAY FOUR ITINERARY
We set out early on Day Four with the intention of doing a bit of sight-seeing. We covered the Fort Jesus Museum (KSH1140 / R163 per person), a 16th century, Portuguese coastal fort displaying Kenyan archeological finds and much of the history of the town.
By then, the heat demanded that we stop for a quick break at our favourite spot (Jahazi Coffee House) before walking through the Old Town and Port of the city.
We once again surrendered and made our way back to frolic in the hotel pool until dusk when it was cool enough to walk down Mama Ngina Drive (their beachfront) and taste all of the street food on offer! We went from Cassava chips to Rehmani’s Khima Chipathi and SinaBBQ (what we heard was the best tikka).
NOTE: We travelled in the month of March, which is Ramadan – something we hadn’t considered before – and whilst Nairobi is a very Christian city, Mombasa is more muslim. The result of which meant that many of the places we wanted to try were closed.
DAY FIVE — MOMBASA OUTSKIRTS
DAY FIVE ITINERARY
For our anniversary, we had planned to trek to Serena Beach Resort, adjacent to the Mombasa Marine National Park, where we could snorkel on a Glassboat tour. While there are many tours, we went on one with Captain Mohammed (only available on Whatsapp).
We decided to have a celebratory breakfast at the hotel before our tour with Captain Mohammed. We paid 18 dollars per person for the marine park fee and around KSH2000 (R285) per person for the tour. The still, warm waters made for a great diving experience and we spent such a long time in the water – luckily, they were patient with us, as we are both enthusiastic swimmers and stayed out on the reef for a lot longer than many of the accompanying tours whose tourists got tired quickly.
After the tour, we lazed at the hotel pool before taking the hour long road back to Mombasa, and back to Nyali beach – that’s right, three swimming trips in one day. We deserved it. We were gearing up to leave for the Island of Lamu the next morning.
Stay tuned for the Lamu blog! Otherwise, read a few of my other travel blogs: Morocco, Amsterdam, Cairo.
Love,
Eden
